FYI

  • What's the deal with cup sole shoes?

    Without a midsole or welt the cup sole / sidewall stitch construction is one of the lightest and most flexible of all outsole constructions. The cup sole also gives any shoe a unique look, one that is cool and casual
  • Craftsmanship

    Craftsmanship: a pictorial
  • What it means to be Genuine Hand Sewn

    This technique is practiced by the select few who truly believe in the skills of their shoemakers.
  • Tying the Perfect Bow

    Have you ever wanted to learn how to tie the perfect bow on your camp-mocs. Watch this video we just made demonstrating how the craftspeople at Rancourt & Co. do it.
  • Removing innersole from Blake Boots

    This is a well worn (2+ years) Blake boot, one of our early models. The uppers are an SB Foot leather, fully lined, with a leather midsole and plantation crepe wedge sole. I wanted to show how safely and easily the innersoles can be removed if need be. To be 100% clear, we do not typically have to remove and/or replace the innersoles when a Blake shoe or boot is be re-soled. However, after multiple re-solings it may be best to replace the innersole if it is compromised by all of the stitch holes. I also wanted to demonstrate how the fiberboard innersoles we use do mold to your feet and even after two years of heavy use are still in great shape and do not need to be replacedIMG_1375

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    The boots have been "re-lasted" meaning the original last has been inserted back into the boots.

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    At this point we are ready to remove the sole unit. He inserts a thin and sharp knive between the uppers and the midsole and carefully cuts all of the threads attaching the midsole to the innersole.

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    After the sole unit is removed we are ready to carefully peel the upper away from the innersole.

     

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    He begins by gently wedging a blunt metal tool in between the upper and innersole and carefully pulling the uppers away from the innersole. The tool has no sharp edges so as not to cut or damage the uppers.

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    When the uppers are separated from the innersole the upper can be safely removed.

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    All pieces are undamaged, theoretically we could use this innersole again, but we will not. It was only removed for the purpose of this demonstration. The sole unit will be trashed and a new one installed. You can start to see how the innersole has molded to the wearer's feet.

     

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    A very well worn innersole but still completely intact.

     

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    A side view to better show how the innersole has molded to the foot. IMPORTANT NOTE: this is an early model and at the time we were not wrapping the innersole in leather. We now take the extra step of wrapping the innersole in leather lining so the lining will not pull away from the innersole.

     

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    I will try to post pics of the new innersole being installed as well as pics of the re-soling process and the finished boots.

     

     

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